Where the Vanderbilts Used to Vacation—And You Can, Too
Plus: Updated credit card perks, a new and controversial book, and how to stay safe in a heat wave.
Newport, RI is a destination that holds a lot of meaning in my heart, and yet I don’t remember a single thing I did there. Let me back up.
For several years after college, my close girlfriends and I would try to travel to a nearby town around Memorial Day Weekend. In 2019, we chose Newport.
On the day we were supposed to drive over, my best friend, Sarah, and I had lunch plans, and I hoped to get on the road soon after. Well, it turns out that those “lunch plans” were actually…my engagement. Sarah was actually there to photograph our proposal on our apartment’s rooftop overlooking New York City.
After lunch, I left for the City by the Sea. I arrived that weekend with a new ring on my finger and a new-to-me place to celebrate. I remember it vividly as being beautiful but the weekend was, of course, eclipsed by bigger life news, so I couldn’t tell you where to go or what to eat.
Luckily, Mackenzie Newcomb of the Bad Bitch Book Club, or @mackinstyle as you may know her online, frequents there often. With nearly 100,000 BBBC followers, I’m a huge fan of the community Mackenzie has built and what BBBC is all about.
Mackenzie generously shared all of her tips for the perfect trip to Newport saying, “It is a place with great food, gorgeous ocean views and more activities than you could possibly do in one single weekend. It makes my heart sing. I love it there.”
I think you’ll love this city just a few hours away from New York City and Boston—whether you go for a sunny long weekend, a rainy getaway where you head to a museum, or a Christmas escape, Newport is a gem. Thank you Mackenzie for your invaluable tips, and I’ll let you take it away from here…
Where the Vanderbilts Used to Vacation—And You Can, Too: Newport, Rhode Island
Between 1870 and 1910, Newport rose to prominence as a hot summer destination for America’s wealthiest families. These days, you’re a lot more likely to rub shoulders with the wealthy at a dive bar after a sailing race, but back then, it would have been in a ball gown. (Please note while doing research about this I quite literally stumbled upon something called a “Dog Ball” where Mamie Fish hosted people’s pampered pups for a three-course dinner. Eat the rich, etc, etc.)
Today, Newport is still packed full of people with money, but they tend to leave their ball gowns at home. Instead, you’re a lot more likely to find women in their forties from New England wearing designer white jeans and a cashmere sweater with a glass of Sancerre in their hand and a nice-but-not-too-nice bag on their arm. The vibes are casual (dare I say, truly quiet…) luxury. The weather is 10 degrees cooler than Boston and New York and thus far more enjoyable in the summer.
Where to Stay
Short-term rentals are actually illegal in Newport! If you’re interested in renting a house, look next-door in Middletown. They have great beaches, it’s only a 15 minute drive from downtown, where Newport Vineyards is located. This one can sleep 10 and is only $500 a night—a truly great deal.
My absolute favorite hotel in Newport is The Cliffside Inn. It’s a renovated Victorian mansion with beautiful rooms (many with fireplaces), a fabulous cocktail hour for their guests, and the location is right off the famous Cliffwalk. It’s a little out of the way if you’re trying to walk everywhere, so i’d recommend a car unless you plan to Uber.
If you’re traveling without a car, Hammett’s Hotel is ideal. You’re walking distance from everything, and they have a huge outdoor space overlooking the harbor. It’s super clean and well-appointed, and they tend to have really great off-season rates.
Ballin’ without a budget? Gardiner House is at the top of my to-stay list. Even if it’s out of your budget for a hotel, they have an incredible cocktail bar you simply must see.
Shocked by the prices in July & August? I insist Newport is better during the shoulder seasons. But if you’re committed to the summer—look at some chain hotels in Middletown (so close, can’t express how close) and use those points!
Where to Eat & Drink:
I am guilty of revisiting the same places over and over again in Newport. Once I’ve discovered something I love, it’s hard for me to deviate from my favorites.
Thames Street Kitchen: Why would you go all the way to Rhode Island to eat at a steakhouse? For the bonito brown butter sauce on the side. But seriously, this inventive menu (think bone marrow escargot) would be massively viral even in New York City. Which should be your clue to book your reservation a week or two in advance or run the risk of a 9:30pm dinner.
Clarke Cooke House: Delicious seafood in a warm environment, with the BEST bartenders. Whether you want a classic lobster roll or are in the mood for sushi, you can guarantee they’ll have something fresh and beautiful for you to eat. I absolutely adore this place and recommend the mussels and the tuna tartar.
The Black Pearl: If you want to sit outside and want to make sure the food you’re eating is worth the real estate premium, The Black Pearl is your best bet. They have an A+ clam chowder, great drinks and the best setup on the wharf. Is it my favorite food on the island? No, but it’s my favorite experience.
Bar ‘Cino: There is a rumor and absolutely no proof that all three of the (musical) Jonas Brothers once ate here and that is why it’s always so busy. But I think the word has just gotten out that they have the best bolognese sauce in all the land. The food here is warm and comforting, which is why I go back every single time I’m in Newport. (Ed. note: I’m obsessed also with the fact that Bar ‘Cino is 100% employee-owned!)
One Pelham: The floors are sticky, the cover is $20 cash, but the band is genuinely good and you’re more likely to see people dancing with their friends, instead of scrolling on their phone.
Pour Judgement: A genuinely excellent dive bar with fair prices, a great staff and a menu that makes you want to skip all the fancy sh*t in Newport just to have a Penne Carbonara large enough to feed a family of four for a week.
Gardiner House: On a fancier note, I absolutely adore the Studio Bar at Gardiner House. It’s dark and moody and the cocktails are fantastic. This is a must-visit if you’re visiting off season and want to hangout somewhere with a fireplace and a chic ambiance. For something similar, the Vanderbilt Hotel.
Sweet Berry Farm: If you’re going the rental route, make sure to check out Sweet Berry Farm. They have delicious pre-made snacks and salads and you absolutely cannot skip the homemade strawberry whoopie pies!
Castle Hill Inn: Nobody (that I know) can afford to stay here—but that doesn’t mean we can’t have an Aperol Spritz with the best view in the North East! Truly a gorgeous experience.
What to Do:
Charter Books: You know that feeling of excitement you get when you walk into a really good bookstore? That’s how I feel about Charter. Though it’s on the smaller side, they have allllll the buzzy books (usually signed) and are staffed with great conversationalists. They also have a wonderful children’s section. A few doors down you’ll find Closet Revival: it’s a consignment shop that is absolutely worth bopping around.
Cliff Walk: If you are given a beautiful day in Newport, you must walk at least part of the beautiful 3.5 mile stretch along the seaside known as the Cliff Walk. On one side, you have the Atlantic Ocean, and on the other, the iconic mansions. It’s free and it shouldn’t be skipped (Beware: you can only do part of this with a stroller!!).
Newport Mansions: As previously mentioned, Newport has historically been a playground for the rich and famous. Nowadays, most of their homes are museums. The Breakers is the most famous and should definitely be your first visit. Also, I know I keep trying to convince you to visit outside of the summer, but please consider this at Christmas time! Gilded Age fans—this is your moment.
Marble House Tea: Alva Vanderbilt was given this mansion as a gift for her 39th birthday. Imagine. She chose to build a Chinese-inspired tea room right on the edge of a cliff where she hosted members of the suffragette movement. Now you can go have a three course high-tea while dining on “votes for women” plates. Not going to lie, kind of an amazing experience.
Newport Art Museum: If I see an art museum, I’m going. Newport Art Museum is far from world-renowned, but it is respectable! And it’s in a beautiful old mansion (isn’t everything here?) If you love art, it’s definitely worth spending an hour here.
Vintage Shops: Folk Vintage, Daydream Vintage, and Nest are all within walking distance to each other and carry a wide range of secondhand and vintage pieces at a great price. For homeware, I’ve found cool stuff at Antique Boutique and Leeside Antiques.
What Else to Know:
Newport is incredibly walkable, and you truly do not need a car (though I always prefer one—sue me!) You can get there by taking a Lyft from the Kingstown Amtrak station (30 min, approximately).
Though summer is very popular, I cannot stress enough how lovely it is during the spring and fall, especially if you hate crowds. That said, Newport is becoming more and more popular to visit, so planning your meals is a great idea.
Also, if you are traveling with kids, my recommendations change ever-so-slightly:
Skip TSK and opt for Bar’Cino or La Vecina Taqueria next door (both have affordable kid’s menus).
Visit the aquarium instead of the mansions (unless your child is a walking angel; mine isn’t!).
Hit Ryan’s Amusements for old fashioned arcade fun (honestly, who needs a kid for this?) And if you like sailing– know that there are virtual activations for them to play with there as well.
🏆 What a joy hearing about your favorite books in last week’s edition. The winner of a $50 gift card to Bookshop.org is… Jade F! Please DM me your preferred email and we’ll get that sent your way.
🫠 Thank you to everyone who told me the link for my new favorite shoes didn’t work! I’m resharing them here—with the right URL this time—as they just keep getting better and better.
💳 As your resident “credit card perks evangelist,” I’m here to remind you: New quarter/half, newly reset benefits! Don’t sleep on AmEx Platinum’s $300 biannual hotel, $100 dining + $75 lululemon credits (I once again recommend this cropped rain-jacket). For Chase Sapphire Reserve, your $150 Stubhub/Viagogo and $150 dining credits are back. For other premium cards, here’s a handy roundup. (The Points Guy)
📚 I was a huge fan of Jessica Knoll’s previous book, Bright Young Women, so I hopped on the chance to read an ARC of her book coming out next Tuesday: Helpless. I want to be clear: It’s extremely dark and controversial, but the twists really turned the plot on its head. If anyone else reads, I’d love to know what you think!
🧺 I recently tried these laundry detergent pods and found the scents to be really luxurious and intoxicating. If you worry about your clothes smelling while traveling, I would absolutely get the dryer sheets and throw some into your luggage. (They also have a scent brochure if you want to test them all.)
☀️ Much of the world is—or has recently been—in a heat wave; it’s a sweltering 95 degrees here in Atlanta. If you’re traveling, please be safe with these tips from the experts. And if you’re on an SSRI like me, drink 2x as much water. (AFAR)
Have a wonderful holiday weekend if you celebrate—see you next week! —Henah x
