This European City Isn't On Your Bucket List—It Should Be
Where to stay, eat, swim, and thrift, from someone who's visited 30+ times. Plus, how to invest in nature on your next trip and a bra that relieves back pain.
Bonjour! I’m currently in Paris with my best friend, and as this lands in your inbox, we’ll be heading to the south of France—I can’t wait to share more.
In the meantime, I’m thrilled to welcome our third guest author for our guest guide series: Kelly Turner. She’s been working on this feature for months, and it shows; this is one handy cheat sheet! I’ll let her take it from here, and enjoy this local’s look at one of Europe’s most enchanting cities. 🇨🇭
Listen, I get it—maybe Zurich isn’t on your bucket list. It’s a medium-sized city (440,000 inhabitants) in a small (9 million people), expensive country with four national languages (German, French, Italian and Romansch). Your friends likely haven’t been there.
All true. Also true is it’s a gem of a city waiting to unfurl its delights. In 2012, my architect husband, our Boston Terrier Clover, and I left Los Angeles for Zurich. Our goals were loose. We wanted an “adventure” and could work in Switzerland through my husband’s Czech passport. A woman we met said “be careful, Switzerland is a sticky place.” Turns out, she was right. While we only lived in Zurich for three years, I’ve continued to work remotely in my role as a scientific editor ever since. I live in Houston, Texas and have made nearly three dozen trips to Zurich for work.
Below is my cheat sheet for what the Swiss call “a good start” to your own Zurich adventure. Use it as a jumping off point, but the Swiss are generous with their recommendations. When you get a hot tip or see an interesting alley (a Gasse) in the Old Town—take it! An openness to wonder will serve you well in my beloved home-away-from-home.
Good to Know:
The local currency is the Swiss Franc (abbreviated CHF; the abbreviation for Switzerland is CH for Confederation Helvetica). In June 2026, the exchange rate was 1.25 USD to 1 CHF. Often I’ll make an entire week-long trip without touching paper or coin money. Credit cards are widely accepted.
Over the past eleven years, I’ve traveled to Switzerland in many travel combinations: mostly solo, a handful of times alone with a baby, small kid, or two smallish kids, or with my husband and baby and small kid. Switzerland has always felt extremely safe when I’ve traveled as a woman on my own. I’ve never had qualms hiking solo, taking day trips to small villages on my own, etc.
Zurich is in the German-speaking part of Switzerland. If you speak German, you’ll be understood. Your brain, however, may feel scrambled hearing Swiss German.
English will also serve you well. I recommend having a handful of Swiss German greetings at your disposal. Read more here or here.
Grüezi (greetings),
Tschüss (goodbye),
Danke schön (thank you very much)
Bitte schön (you’re very welcome)
Check the weather! Summer temperatures can sound mild compared to, for example, where I live in Houston, though Switzerland is not immune to heat waves. Air conditioning is minimal. I would expect mid-to-high 80’s (F) in the summer, but don’t be surprised if the skies turn cooler and gray, bringing me to my next hint…
Those hills don’t achieve that lush green without rainfall. While I recommend layers and packing light (the Swiss are understated dressers and roller bags are no fun heaving onto trains or over cobblestones), leave room for a raincoat.
Zurich would make an ideal add-on to another European city, whether you’re there for work or leisure. Give yourself three days. If you have longer, consider a day or weekend trip outside the city.
Getting Into the City
Zurich beckons you to arrive via train. It’s the easiest, fastest, cheapest and most reliable way to make the ~20 minute trip from the airport to the main train station, Zurich Hauptbahnhof (“Zurich HB (ZHB)” to your map app). Zurich HB is the beating heart of the city—it’s the center of the transit map and boasts a variety of stores (clothing, grocery, skincare) and services (pharmacy, urgent care, tourism office, locker storage) to fit your needs.
These days, I take a direct flight from my home in Houston to Paris, where I spend a night or two before taking the train four hours to Zurich. (Of course, I could wait for a connecting flight in Frankfurt, Amsterdam, or London, but I prefer the alone time in Paris to the cramped, regional connecting flight.)
Public transit in Switzerland—whether tram, train, bus, boat—is clean, fast, reliable, and accessible. Kiosks at most stops dispense paper tickets, but I recommend downloading the SBB app (train) and the ZVV app (city of Zurich) for the bus/tram. You can buy tickets by time, for all-day, or short-distance tickets. To facilitate this, I usually get data super cheap through Airalo.
A note about renting a car: I would not recommend it for 99.9% of cases. Zurich has prioritized pedestrians of all ages, abilities and life stages over car travel. Parents hop strollers on and off busses and trains. Kids are expected to walk to school alone at 4 years old (after training from the police and they wear hi-vis reflectors). Only if you’re planning a weekend excursion somewhere not served by the Swiss rail system would I rent a car. (In which case, friendly reminder that mountains make for curvy roads!)
Where to Stay
Yes, it’s an expensive city. Learn from my mistake(s). Resist the allure of the basement apartment “only” twenty minutes outside the city center or the 2.9 star “apartment” on the lodging consolidator. Strong recommendation to stay close in, at a centrally located hotel. Hotels below begin in the CHF 180/night (USD $225) range, depending on season and room size.
Josephine’s Guesthouse for Women has a generous rooftop deck outside the top-floor community kitchen in a lively neighborhood. Downside is the bells of St. Jakob’s church chime between 7a and midnight (Swiss church bells are a whole thing). As the name indicates, it’s women only.
City Hotel Zurich is a tidy design hotel walkable from ZHB and across the street from the big, multi-level City Migros grocery store.
Hotel Alma is my current go-to in the quiet, upscale neighborhood of Seefeld, by the same Sinn & Gewinn group as Josephine’s for Women. It offers a variety of room sizes with discounts if you book in advance. The next time I bring my family, I’ll book one of their family rooms. It’s the quietest of the hotels mentioned here (aside from the Dolder).
My university hosts visitors at Hotel St. Joseph just above the Old Town.
If you have points: Ruby Mimi (IHG) and Citizen M (Marriott Bonvoy) are both walkable from ZHB.
Ultra rich? You could stay at the Grand Dolder.
Hotel notes:
Anticipate smaller rooms compared to what you’ll find in the US. I’m partial to rooms larger than ~ 21 square meters (226 sq ft). Room size will be listed on the website and priced accordingly. (The Swiss are an exacting people.)
When I’m browsing for new hotels, I’ll check the City of Zurich’s tourism website and book directly with the hotel. They usually beat the price on consolidator websites and it’s more nimble if something goes wrong.
Where to Eat/Drink
Because this comes out in Summer 2026, I’m focusing on a summer visit, and summer (on dry days) opens up an economical way to eat. Grab your favorite picnic food or pre-made offerings from one of the two main grocery store chains (Coop, Migros) and eat at the green spot of your choice. You could choose a park, for example Bäckeranlage in the Kries 4 (District 4) neighborhood or China Garden by the lake, next to the Sihl river behind the City Migros or along the Limmat river behind the National Museum.
If you’re eating indoors, I recommend reserving online or asking the receptionist at your hotel to call and make a reservation for you.
Hiltl: World’s oldest vegetarian restaurant (buffet or menu options) and my number one recommendation. I visit at least twice per trip and always get the buffet (standouts include marinated artichokes and stuffed jalapenos). Exception to the reservation rule. Multiple locations, favorites: Rooftop terrace on Hauptbanhofstrasse; Tibits by the Opera House.
Bar Odeon: Art Nouveau café, restaurant, and bar since 1911. At the edge of Old Town, near Bellevueplatz. Ideal for lunch, after work drinks, or dinner. Don’t miss the Apfel Strudel.
La Cédre: Crowd-pleasing Lebanese with three locations in Zurich.
New Bombay: Indian in Old Town with a fresh, cool interior and excellent lunch buffet.
Kafé für Dich: all-day café across the street from Bäckeranlage Park. Play corner for little kids.
Frau Gerold’s is a very cool garden to eat and drink (and yes, they want a reservation!).
Josefstrasse in District 5 has a high concentration of flavors from all over the world. Europa Allee is a car-free area along the backside of ZHB offering excellent casual and formal restaurants.
Tipping: It’s a round-up situation. At a sit-down restaurant, you can leave coins on the table or say 3–5 Francs more than the total when the server brings you the machine.
Water: If you’d like tap water, ask for “Hahnenwasser.” Sometimes there’s a small charge, but it’s less than the bottled water you’ll get otherwise.
What to Do
Stroll, shop and windowshop down Hauptbahnhoffstrasse (Main Train Station Street) from ZHB to Lake Zurich.
Explore (on your own, or with a walking tour) the cobblestone streets of Old Town. While you’re there, take the Polybahn incline (enter next to Starbucks at the Central tram stop) up the hill to the universities (ETH and UZH). It’s part of the ZVV network and included in your all-day transit pass if you purchase one. When a narrow alley (Gasse) catches your attention, follow it! You might discover a surprising garden, artisanal shop, or fountain (yes, you can drink the water).
Do at least one walk through an in-town forest. I’m partial to riding the Dolderbahn incline up (from Römerhof) and walking down. Uetliberg is an in-town “mountain” that can be ascended on foot or via train. A shaded Zurichberg trail is less dramatic but also rewarding.
Visit the hip Viadukt in Kries 5 (District 5) for shops, food hall, or music. Hang out at the park or poke your head in the Salvation Army thrift shop, Bogen 33 for vintage furniture and design, or climb the Freitag Tower.
I can’t pass up a chance for a good thrift: Zürcher Brockenhaus near the main train station is organized over several floors of a former apartment house. Razzo 2nd Hand is a clothing consignment store tucked away in Old Town.
I pop in the Bellevue location of Orell Fuessli for books. The English section is on the top floor. I discovered The Safekeep on the Staff Picks table last September. I found it mesmerizing.
If art or architecture is your thing, check out the Art Museum (Kunsthaus) and their gorgeous new extension.
Zurich is rich in ways to enjoy water. For my money, your best bet is a Badi, a City of Zurich-maintained pool (or lake/river swimming area). The Badis are an incredible bargain. Most are 8 Swiss Francs for adults, less for kids. You can check the water temperature and crowd level at your Badi of choice before you go.
My top three (of many):
Mythenquai: Lounge, read or picnic on the vast, well-maintained lawns. Bring your own food or purchase at the onsite Hiltl. Diving platforms and swimming areas in the lake, or watch your kids frolic in the splash area or playground. A must-do.
Heuried: Massive shaded splash, “channel” area for very little kids, a tube water slide for bigger ones and adults. Also a family pool and lap pool. Cafeteria-style restaurant onsite.
Frauenbad: Art Nouveau, women-only Badi directly on the Limmat river across from the Old Town. More of a sun-bathe, cold plunge, read a book experience.
Day trips: Switzerland doesn’t want for picturesque mountains and lakes. My favorite day trips are the Wallensee (Wallen lake) for a hike/boat/train type day or the classic “Rigi loop,” a longer expedition that takes you through Lucerne and up with a mountain train. Any train station tourism office can help you organize the itinerary. I rely on Tanya, an American who’s been blogging at Swiss Family Fun since 2005, for turn-by-turn itinerary planning. Her website is full of high-quality free and paid resources for step-by-step guidance.
Final Thoughts
If you’re not ready to book a standalone trip to Zurich, consider it as an add-on while you’re in Europe. Who knows, maybe you’ll find this enchanting city as sticky as I do!
About me: I’m a fifth-generation, prodigal Texan living in Houston and working remotely as an editor of scientific grants. I’m often at work on my debut novel, a midlife coming of age story set in the Piney Woods of Southeast Texas (think Margo’s Got Money Troubles, but set in a declining lumber town and with a pesky great aunt, and alas, no Only Fans). My online home is here on Substack, where I write Books are my Love Language, a mostly monthly newsletter highlighting one book at a time. Bias for scrappy narrators. Mostly literary fiction, memoir, and nonfiction.
🏺 When we think of “ancient Rome,” our minds often jump to Greece and Rome, but according to a Director of Ancient History and Mediterranean Archaeology: “We are on the cusp of a dramatic shift in perspective that is producing a much bigger, broader and more exciting view of ‘the ancient world’.” A long read about an old Central Asian vessel found in Scotland, Afro-Eurasia’s history, and ultimately, about our connected humanity.
🙏 Want more underrated cities in Europe? This roundup has plenty to add to your list, including one I’ll visit this weekend (Aix) and others I’d also highly recommend (Vilnius, Málaga, Tallinn). (CN Traveler)
🇲🇳 If I could, I would absolutely apply to join one of El Camino’s last spots available for Mongolia or Lagos later this year. The small group trip I did to Oaxaca remains one of my most beloved experiences, visiting artisans and small businesses I would’ve never found otherwise.
❤️🩹 My back tends to hurt on long-haul flights in economy, so I’ve been wearing this posture-improving bra and it helps. (If you also have foot pain like me, their arch-boosting socks are also great once you’re on the ground. Otherwise, it’s compression socks all flight long, baby!)
🌴 How you can invest in nature on your next trip (with suggestions), from the incredible Juliet Kinsman. (JourneyWoman)
See you next week! —Henah x
