Happy September! I’m coming back today from a quick visit to New York City for a very cool opportunity—I can’t wait to share more. Tomorrow, I hit the road in the evening again, heading to Florida; the slate of fall travel is already in full swing.
This season, my husband and I are prioritizing domestic destinations, a far cry from the first half of the year. We’ll be stopping in Charlotte, Seattle, Washington DC, New York, New Jersey, and then back home again to New Jersey for the holidays. (I’d love to hear what upcoming travel you have!)
If you’re itching to get away, you might love our latest guest guide today from Maranda Peak. Maranda has been such a loyal reader, and when she reached out about a guest guide, it was clear this was a place she loves dearly. Keep this one in your back pocket—and enjoy. 💌
(PS: If you’re interested in doing a guest guide, please DM me! Guest authors are compensated for their time, and I’m always looking to hear from the community about the places they adore most.)
Having gained independence from both Britain and Malaysia in the 1960s, Singapore is a young, bustling city-state full of diverse Asian culture with European influence, and known for strict laws, cleanliness, and class. Often overlooked by Americans (unless you love the book and movie Crazy Rich Asians), Singapore is a magical island in Southeast Asia that every traveler needs to visit—and not just for a stopover on the way to other Asian destinations.
I studied abroad in Singapore while in college, and absolutely fell in love. Although I spent a few months living there, I felt like I barely scratched the surface of what the city/country has to offer. I am delighted to share this beginner’s guide to the Lion City.
Getting There
Budget-wise, Singapore can be a big splurge or budget-friendly, depending on how you do it. You can stay in five-star hotels, shop in the luxury malls, indulge in fine dining, and get around by car service.
However, you can also stay in reliable accommodations for $100–$150 per night, use inexpensive public transit, and eat like locals for $5–$7 per meal. Round-trip flights to Singapore from the other side of the world may run $1,000+ (great time to redeem points/miles!), but flying between Singapore and other parts of southeast Asia is surprisingly affordable.
The Singapore airport itself is a tourist destination. It was built for cleanliness and luxury to attract crucial trade and tourism, and to combat a low supply of labor through efficiency and automation. Plan some extra time, either upon arrival or departure, to visit Changi’s gardens and world’s largest indoor waterfall.
I flew to Singapore from the US via San Francisco on United Airlines (17.5 hours in an economy middle seat!). You can also fly direct from LAX, SEA, and New York’s EWR or JFK. JFK–SIN is currently the world’s longest commercial flight at a whopping 19 hours (brutal, but how cool would it be to say you’ve done this). Unless you’re already in Southeast Asia, this flight time is no joke, so consider splurging on premium economy or business class for comfort if you have some extra points.
Where to Stay
Singapore boasts some of the best luxury hotels in the world (), if that’s for you: Marina Bay Sands (the iconic three towers with the boat-looking top) includes a spectacular rooftop infinity pool. If classic colonial architecture is more your style, check out the iconic Raffles. Another notable option is the Shangri-La in the Orchard neighborhood, known for luxury shopping. (All of these are also part of the American Express Fine Hotel + Resorts program.)
For more affordable options, you can find budget hotels in many neighborhoods ($–$$), including Little India and Chinatown, and even Clarke Quay near the bay. I stayed in student housing in the Novena neighborhood and it was quiet and comfortable.
Short-term rental companies like Airbnb are highly regulated in Singapore, so listings are risky and subject to cancellation. Stick to hotels for peace of mind.
Where to Eat & Drink
The epitome of Singapore food culture is the hawker center ($): You’ll find these open-air food stall centers on every corner, and some Michelin-starred meals are even tucked away inside these dive-looking food courts. My favorite was the Newton Food Center (featured in the Crazy Rich Asians movie) for the nice vibes. The best part is the majority of these meals cost less than $5. Be sure to try Chicken Rice, Duck Rice, and anything with noodles.
Since the climate is quite humid, indoor malls are also a mainstay, including hawker-like food courts that are not to be passed over ($). Pepper Lunch is a must.
Breakfast is not a meal to skip here:
Stop by Toast Box and enjoy kaya toast with eggs. ($)
The best pancakes of my life were the fluffy ones from Belle-Ville. ($$)
At any coffee stand, order “Kopi O” for black coffee with sugar, and “Kopi C” to add evaporated milk. And don’t forget the bubble milk tea. ($)
Generally, most places are vegetarian friendly, although there won’t be as many options at the smaller food courts. Most places accept credit cards, but carry some cash on you for the food stalls as well. And, be aware that it’s hard to find napkins at many of the traditional hawker centers as they have hand-washing stations instead (and many people eat with their hands). There may be some people walking around selling tissues/napkins, but I’d recommend carrying some of your own.
What to Do
Nature:
Gardens by the Bay: If you do only one thing in Singapore, this should be it. Cover as much as you can from this page. Here’s what I loved:
MacRitchie Treetop Walk: Great half-day hike; moderate difficulty.
Palau Ubin: Take a boat over to this island and spend a day biking around and eating seafood.
Singapore Botanic Gardens: Visit at night for a cooler, less-crowded experience.
Henderson Waves Bridge: Ideal for a shorter visit at sunset.
Sightseeing:
Clarke Quay river walk: Worthwhile restaurants and bars.
Marina Bay boat tour: Convenient, take this from Clarke Quay.
Merlion Park: See the iconic mascot of Singapore.
Sentosa Island: Make this a day trip or even stay at a resort for a couple nights!
Take the monorail there for easy transportation
Hang out on the beach and visit the Southernmost point of Continental Asia
You can even visit Universal Studios here if you like theme parks!
Culture:
Head to Bussorah Street for vibrant Muslim culture. Walk slowly and visit the shops and cafes.
Museums:
City Gallery. I learned so much about the nation’s geography and history here.
ArtScience Museum. Well-worth a stop while you visit Marina Bay Sands.
National Museum. Learn more about history, culture, and architecture.
Take a cooking class or do a food tour. I learned to make Popiah (thin pancakes filled with vegetables and meat) at this fantastic generational shop.
Nightlife:
Final Tips
The city is super safe and clean, due to the strict laws. I wouldn’t have any concerns for a solo woman traveler in Singapore, as long as you stick to well-populated areas if you’re out at night. Visit Singapore has a great guide for solo travelers with itinerary suggestions.
The MRT (subway) system is the best way to get around, or you can hail a Grab rideshare.
Don’t chew gum in public (gum sales are banned here).
If you dare to try the infamous durian fruit, don’t bring it on the MRT with you, due to the pungent smell (seriously, it’s illegal).
The city is quite technologically advanced, so most establishments accept all major credit card issuers. I actually first used tap-to-pay all over Singapore before it was widely accepted in the US. I would carry ~$100 (~SGD 130) in cash for smaller merchants and local vendors.
Singaporeans are generally quiet and reserved, so be cautious of your volume when speaking in public.
Bring a big hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen and be prepared to sweat, but bring layers for when you’re indoors, as the AirCon is strong.
Out of the 35 countries I’ve been to, Singapore remains my favorite and I hope this guide gives you a slight sense of why. I would plan to visit for 1–2 weeks, but you can still have a nice time on a shorter stopover (and will always leave wanting more). Please enjoy and share with others, and reach out to me on Instagram at @marandapeak11 if you have any questions.
🥇 Thanks to our paid subscribers who entered to win a custom trip plan with Odyssey Ventures in last week’s edition—it was so much fun to read what everyone’s interests were, especially the niche ones. The giveaway’s winner is Tallie Schaffer; please DM me to claim your code!
🦵 In the coming weeks, I’m treating my CVI in hopes that my ankle and foot pain will ease up, which means I’ll be relying on compression socks for the foreseeable future. These are still my favorites after years of testing, and perfect for travel days.
🤯 Google Flights has new features to show you the cost of flights in points and miles, in addition to cash, directly in search. Only Alaska/Hawaiian and American are available for now, but they’re planning to roll out others soon. Could be revolutionary—will be interested to see how it stacks up against PointsYeah, Point.Me, etc.
🏨 Did you know you could buy the world’s first motel? Located just outside San Luis Obispo, you could live out your Schitt’s Creek dreams in this century-old space. Also, a fun fact: “Legend has it that the original plan was to call it the Milestone Motor Hotel, but a painter couldn’t fit all the letters on the sign, and the word ‘motel’ was born.” (Nice News)
🚙 Weekend trips are competing with longer vacations, and fall is now the peak season to do so—tracks with my own life. In any case, get ready for some steep competition this season, especially with fall foliage. (Airbnb News)
📚 Ann Patchett shared her favorite books of the year, and I cannot wait for Music Against the Night based on her recommendation. (Woman’s World)
🇪🇸 Promptly adding Cadaqués to my list. (Nicoletta in Europe)
See you next week! —Henah x
