I Spent a Day with an Indigenous Tribe in Taiwan
It wasn't at all what I expected: Could tourism help conserve traditional culture?
On a drizzly April morning, my husband and I traversed the longest suspension bridge in Yilan, Taiwan, adorned with richly colored diamond-shaped designs. Just over 1,000 feet long, we slowly but surely walked above layers of verdant greenery to the other end—where we’d meet the Bulau Bulau tribe of the Atayal people.
I’ve always been fascinated by Indigenous communities, from Polynesian Hawaiians, to tribes in the remote Amazon, completely untouched by modern civilization. Ahead of our visit, I was expecting the Bulau Bulau to be similar to the latter: an intentionally and largely disconnected tribe, communally tied to their traditional lands and natural resources, rather than investing in capitalism or technology.
Then the Land Rover pulled up.
I’d never even been in a Land Rover before, much less brought up a mountainside in one. I somehow assumed they’d reject modern transportation, and at a later point in the day, one woman asked how the tribe received electricity to which the host politely smiled and said, “The electric company.”
Our time with the Bulau Bulau turned my idea of what “Indigenous living” looks like on its head, and it was one of the most memorable travel experiences I’ll ever have, generously coordinated by the team at Black Tomato—whose co-founder, Tom Marchant, I interviewed earlier this year.
But let me back up.
The Atayal (also known as the Tayal) are a Taiwanese Indigenous people, the third-largest in the country. Tayal roughly translates to “human” and Bulau Bulau—according to the tribe itself—means “to gallivant.” They reside primarily in the northeast of the island, about an hour and a half outside of Taipei.
Like many Indigenous people, the Bulau Bulau (and the Atayal at large) are known for their vibrant traditions, sustainable cultural practices, and communal living. Unlike some tribes who prefer to keep their distance from modern civilization, the Bulau Bulau warmly welcomes visitors, limited to 30 a day for the most traditional experience.
Kwali, the second-generation leader of the Bulau Bulau and our English-speaking host, was the driver who pulled up in the Range Rover. Kwali’s parents are Han Chinese and Atayal, and after pursuing his higher education in hotel management in Australia and completing his military service, he returned home to the tribe. What he found, though, was a community that had dwindled to just 15 elderly folks; most youth had to leave the area to look for work, and there was no internet connection or electricity.
Kwali decided, alongside the remaining elders and his family, to revitalize the community and make it a place where they could be entirely self-sufficient—and where tourism (and technology) would actually be key to their vision.
Originally, Kwali shared, the tribe had planned to sell their crops at larger markets in Taipei. But given the long distance they had to travel each day and the competition in the capital, they were forced to pivot. Today, the land rotationally grows a number of crops, mushrooms, and millet wine, alongside this visitor experience, and profits go to support the ~40 or so people in the village. (On the note of the Land Rover, the car was from a partnership and one of the only ways to safely bring visitors up the steep mountain roads.)
As we cleared the bushes and came upon the Bulau Bulau’s land, we were taught the local greeting: “Lo Kah Su!” We had to scream it repeatedly, which the tribe would return in earnest. Soon after, we were given locally grown corn and pork skewers to roast above a small fire pit, and we met the other visitors on-site that day—many of whom were also from the US mainland.
Almost as if on cue, the rain and fog immediately cleared up, and we were graced with a gorgeous view of mountains and lush plant life, with huts and a small teepee in the middle of the space. A large vat of bubbling vegetable broth simmered behind us, the aroma intoxicating.
Kwali then showcased the real star of the tribal land: Millet. One of the most sustainable parts of their community is their business producing millet wine, with an on-site winery. While millet seeds were hard to find for several years, Kwali and his team found some that were passed down from generation to generation, and safely stored them at their warehouse. Now they produce millet wine in batch quantities, and as we learned through our own tasting, it is delicious. (Yes, we bought several bottles to bring home.)
The Bulau Bulau gave us a tour to the rest of their land: Where sweets and pastries are made in-house, where the elders sleep versus the youth, the rooms where textile and yarn weaving are done, where they store their knives and hunting materials. Along the way, we were invited to try our hand at activities like bow-and-arrow archery, chopping wood with an axe, and making our own millet mochi topped with honey. There were even some lighthearted drinking games involved.
Eventually, we sat down for a four-course meal, offering a taste of the tribe’s unique culinary heritage: Most of the fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, and millet were grown nearby, and they even showed us how they hunt for their meat. (As a vegetarian, I passed on the meat, but my husband said the food was rich in taste and filling.)
One course after another made its way to the table, as they refilled our wine glasses in tandem: A starter with squash, carrots, and greens, a sweet-yet-savory serving of sweet potato topped with salt, a hot-pot style bowl with baby corn and shiitake mushrooms, and a gourd filled with rice, nuts, and raisins. As we dined, some of the younger tribe members performed music with songs and simple musical instruments.
By the time we finished feasting and hopped back in the Land Rover to head down the mountain, one thing felt for sure: You would never leave here hungry or unhappy.
The Bulau Bulau’s hospitality was palpable, without feeling forced—and that was integral to Kwali’s approach to tourism. It’s not about being a tourist attraction, but rather a living tribe supplemented by tourism. They keep their traditional way of life alive, and it’s made possible by these bits of the “modern” world, via technology and tourism dollars.
With such a small community, I was astounded by their model and their ability to be entirely self-reliant. As Kwali explained, this paradigm primarily works because of the tribe’s individual responsibilities: There are four main tasks a village member can do, say, farming, architecture, hunting, or weaving. Youth learn many of these skills as they grow up, and at one point, everyone is sent out of the village to gain a higher education, with the hopes of returning.
When they come back several years later, they now have additional skills they can teach across their community, and they are “moved up” the hierarchy to take one of the four main tasks, allowing elders to take a step back. (Though, we eventually met Kwali’s grandmother who still weaves textiles today!)
It’s incredible to think that even the homes and huts were built using local materials and longtime wisdom passed down upon generations, while also taking advantage of electricity and cell signal, fusing together the traditional and modern. While they don’t offer overnight stays, they welcome educators to their vocational school where you can volunteer (with endless millet wine, of course) and teach new skills, like pottery or candle-making or the basics of food science.
What started as a return back home for Kwali has flourished into a community that shows tourism can help to preserve culture, not erode it: the farm-to-table concepts, millet baking and wine production, aboriginal textile designs, local music. Because the Bulau Bulau tribe have clear, thoughtful guidelines around visitors—alongside open arms and a sense of earnestness—I was in awe of the community they’ve (re)built, understanding of their boundaries, and honored to witness their way of life. And what a joy it is to be able to share it with you all, as well.
Many thanks again to the Bulau Bulau tribe for their hospitality, and you can book directly with them if you’re interested in a visit. And a special note of gratitude to the Black Tomato team for coordinating a once-in-a-lifetime multi-day experience. While Black Tomato doesn’t book one-day trips like this, you can reach out to them for an unmatched, unexpected, and memorable experience. All photos taken with permission.
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Beautiful photos!! What an incredible experience.
Wow wow wow! What an amazing experience!